Ladakh & Leh-The Roof of the World

Reflections on a trip to The Roof of the world- LEHLife is interesting more so when one sees it thru the eyes of a traveler and travel can be a joyful , refreshing and energizing experience. We discovered this last week ( i.e end June 2010) when we travelled as a family to one of the most picturesque places..Yes , that’s Leh in Ladakh. What was the trigger and why did we opt for a package trip?Well, Leh- Ladakh has been in our radar of places that we intend to travel and a chance write up in a popular travel magazine of economical packages to this place aroused my interest.. The same magazine carried an advertisement that read “ If there is Paradise on Earth, it is this, It is this, It is this..Come to paradise in Jammu and Kashmir”. I quickly surfed the net for the online travel portal to check on this package and saw a couple of them covering Leh and or Srinagar of varied durations. As I got on to the toll free number , I discovered that the packages were running full and the next available suitable package was in the third week of July. We just had the window of a two week period starting mid June when my daughter had holidays and therefore we had to do something different. We had read and met people who had reached Leh vide road from Manali.a 540 km two day travel and we explored this option including a drive to Srinagar via Kargil after a few days stay in Leh. We had almost firmed up on a customized reasonably economical package and sheer curiousity made me check on the weather conditions on the internet and if the roads were open. To my surprise I noticed that the Manali – Leh road had remained closed for most days during the period . This made us rethink and further enquiries vide the toll free number to the call centre only made us more uncomfortable as there was no assurance and human eye to eye contact with the person facilitating the travel. Fortunately this online portal had a office in Bangalore and I chose to meet people across the table and explore options. This worked and was also reassuring and we found ourselves booked onto a 5 day package to Leh ex Bangalore .That sealed it.. Some times I wonder and feel it is ironical that some of the most beautiful lands on earth are not easily accessible to the common man due to limitations on surface transport as a result of bad unpredictable weather . Coincidentally, at the end of our trip we saw a plan being initiated to build a 8.2 km long tunnel from Rowthang pass near Manali to facilitate all weather travel to Leh.What were our expectations? A difficult question..well ideally a mixed balance of relaxation, comfort and adventure and to see and do something different.

Well Leh is different, it’s a hill station in a desert with very little greenery . The early morning flight from Delhi deprives one of some sleep and as we descended we saw spectacular views of rustic brown tumbling mountain surfaces forming a huge range of mountain tops with snow capped peaks forming the outer layer. The shadows of the clouds painted different shades of colours ranging from golden yellow to brown to dark grey and as we closed in, we saw some patches of interspersed greenery . Truly a awe inspiring sight of a hazy, craggy jigsaw of foothills as seen from the aircraft windows , The small airport in the midst of a valley is cozy and has a functional ambience. The airport is at 3500 m height and is one of the highest in the world.. We are greeted by locals and a Board saying ‘Julley’ meaning ‘ Namaste’ . Well, we chose to rest the first day to acclimatize to the high altitude as was advised , as otherwise the lack of oxygen sometimes causes headaches and breathlessness . It is recommended to drink plenty of water 
On Day 2, we wake up to the chant of ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’ renting the early morning air. Later we visit some monasteries like Thiksey , Hemis and Shey palaces and participate in a ongoing Sindhu festival. This festival is held at the polo ground.. the game of polo seems to be popular as these grounds are referred to as shagarams locally. We visit the the Sangam / Sham valley and see the confluence of two mighty rivers Sindhu and Zanskar. On the way we come across a strange Magnetic hill that defies gravity at a a particular spot on the road!. We also visit the HALL OF FAME, a museum dedicated to the heroes of the Kargil wars. Remember Ladakh is also home to the world’s highest battlefield of Siachen and both neighboring countries spend over a million dollars per day to maintain their forces up there in Siachen n very inhospitable conditions.
In the evening ,we walk the Leh Bazaar and Shanti Stupa and observe that Ladakhi food and inhabitants are akin to Tibetan culture . One carries images of Buddhist monks with silver or ivory coloured amulets and offering bowls clan in maroon traditional dresses and women wearing head scarves and gonchas. A typical ladakhi wears a tall brocaded hat known as ‘tipi’ , felt shoes with culling toes known as ‘papu’ and cross button vests. There is an imposing palace on the slopes of a mountain right in front of our hotel with a mosque and Vihara adjoining each other at its foothills leading to a busy market alley of winding lanes with a number of local shops offering trekking, tourism services, curios, carpets, handicraft, T- shirts, tea urns, ubiquitous prayer wheels and singing bowls. One sees prayer flags, incense and wall hangings with auspicious symbols . There are numerous shops selling ‘german bakery stuff’ all catering to a reasonably significant foreigners crowd. One is amazed at the range of trekking paths, geared cycles and motor cycles on hire. I do think that it is advisable to consider planning a free day or two so that one can opt for a program of one’s choice , be it in the mediation camps or a trek in the cocoa brown ridges and mountain terrain that characterizes Ladakh.
Day 3: Leh-Pangong Lake-Leh (154 kms/6 hours one way)
After an early morning breakfast, we take off for a full day excursion to the majestic Pangong Lake. Inner line permits are required to visit this place and these permits are arranged typically by the local travel agents. Pangong’s famous 6 kms wide, 134 kms long blackish-blue lake has become a popular tourist attraction post the Bollywood movie’ 3 Idiots’. Over 75% of this lake is in Tibet and Aksai- Chin. Ladakh literally means land of high passes. On the way to Pangong lake , we pass thru Chang La pass at a height of 17350 feet (5270 m) , he third highest pass in the world and the only motor able approach to Tso pangong. The roads are maintained by the army . The army camps like the ones in Tangste are housed in corrugated iron sheds and are marked by signs showing ‘complementary Tea’ ‘ toilets’ and a heated shelter. I understand that the Indo China war in 1962 saw action here and the small battalion of the Indian army put up very stiff resistance. Tourists are tolerated but are advised to leave early Most mountain roads cling to hill sides and as you drive past the road, one sees a crescendo of snow and ice and we are tempted to scoop a handful of snow and ice but beware of sharp edged stagnamites . Pangong lake looks like a blue snake with multiple shades of green and peacock blue and has a stunning backdrop of mountains in what looks like undisturbed quiet surroundings except for some yaks a, horses , donkeys that we saw grazing near the lake or the approach road.. The lake is best characterized by a blue haze with subtly shifting colours and varying shapes as they merge into the banks/ horizon. Pangong has a hallucinatory beauty in sylvan settings and I for one wished we could slow down time to do justice and absorb the view and get soaked in it. Truly awesome!. The souvenir shop there is just out of place as are the tourist vehicles..they clutter the place and gives an awry city feel. Surely there must be better alternatives..
Leh-Khardung La-Leh (37 kms/2 hours one way)
The next day , after breakfast, we visit to Khardung La Pass - the highest motor-able road in the world at 18,380 ft above sea level. It is also known as Khardong La or Khardzong La which means “High Mountain Pass”. We gain a height of over 6000 feet in less than two hours, so the roads are steep, pebble strewn meandering paths and one needs both spine and a spare tyre to undertake such journeys.. At the summit, we climb up some short distances of snow clad mountains .this is tough at this height of 18350 feet..the chilling breeze turns our cheeks red and as we gasp for oxygen , we are advised to take sips of water and not expose ourselves to this weather for more than an hour.
Reflections and observations:
Leh is indeed the roof of the world and offers some lessons. The place is clean, no piles of garbage. We stayed opposite a busy vegetable market and one saw the early morning activities of unloading and transportation of vegetable sacks and other grocery. The place was cleaned up and by 6 am there was not a trace of dirt.
I did not see any beggars, more so handicapped people seeking alms, all scenes that we see every day in cities. I enquired the locals on this subject..they said , the Ladakhis are self respecting, they would rather starve then beg and the harsh winter conditions that last for over 8 months in a year makes people tough both physically and mentally.
Most visitors like us tend to get busy photographing our kit and kin or friends as we reach the destination, be it the high .passes or the beautiful lake or rich cultural monasteries. Time is short and we perhaps do not give ourselves the solitude required to absorb the stunning beauty or the silence of the place. I found myself hugging two cameras, the video and still as I tried climb the ridge at heights of 17000 and 18000 feet..something avoidable? I observed my fellow colleague being hands free and walking up to a lonely place and pray as he soaked in the eco system. There was also the sight of snowball throwing shrieking couples. Whats’ your style?
The roads are battered and are seen in clefts in walls of snow. It needs a stomach to navigate thru these narrow paths. Our driver fell sick on the way and one of our vehicle tyres punctured. Fortunately we had a convoy of 3 vehicles and a local accompanied us..he doubled up as the spare driver. Adjoining the roads, we see crude white painted stupas and large piles of stones. On enquiry , we were told that these are offerings of faith and in the past building stupas was a way of punishing / condoning uncivilized acts.
It is advisable to avoid alcohol and take simple food. Well, we just had hot roti, dal and sabji and light breakfast with plenty of water.
The locals and the Army are very supporting and caring. As we reach their camps in high altitudes, one sees them offering a hot cup of black tea, dry fruits and enquire about your comfort and advise you on he road and expected weather.. This is truly reassuring. What surprised me was the regional affiliation that strikes a chord..eg we tend to talk or seek out army men or fellow tourists from the same state. When are we going get out of this mindset and see ourselves as Indians first!
We were lucky to have good dry sunny weather and good health. THANK GOD
Concluding remarks: One carries fond memories of a desert with vast landscapes of rusty mountains, often seen as inhospitable, occasionally interspersed with a green patch of willow trees and barley fields, silhouettes of snow capped mountains, ruins of Shey palace, the chants of Buddhist mantras and breath taking views at heights of 18000 feet. The scenery eclipses any headache. I particularly liked a sign at the high mountain passes that read “You are nearest to Heaven and can have a dialogue with God’… how true!
All I can say is Ladakh is amazing, splendid and magical. I know I need to make another trip someday to see Nupra valley, Tso Moriri lake , Achi and other places..something to look forward to. I urge you to step out of your comfort zone and experience the unknown.

We did.

S. mohan rao..1-7-2010